Maoists call for end to strike.

Photo 1- The much heralded picture of me doing laundry.


Photo 2 – After the clouds have cleared the view down valley from my tent at EBC.

Photo 3 – Pumori (23,357’) peeking through the clouds.

I have now been at EBC or higher for 1 month and I want to thank everyone for their continued prayers for the team and I. “The prayers of a righteous man (woman, people) availeth much.” The good news is we just heard that the Maoists have actually called off their own strike. This will immediately help the people of Nepal return to a “normal” life. Food can begin to flow back into the capital, people can return to work and earn money for their families, and a plethora of other things that most of us take for granted. As for us at EBC the Maoists have left and are no longer a threat. This news coupled with a second day of sunshine has brought a renewed hope that our summit attempt can begin shortly.

So what does the jet stream say about this? Hold on, not so fast! The jet stream is still blowing at over 80 M.P.H. on the summit. These strong winds are expected to continue until at least the 16th. Although, this can change very quickly. I still remain patient that the weather will improve and soon I will drink the cold, thin, crisp air of 29,035’ A.S.L.

I want to also send out a special thank you to all of the moms out there. Happy Mother’s Day! I hope your special day is fun and relaxing. To the #1 mom out there, my wife, Diana. Alexander is blessed to have you as his mom and I am blessed to call you my wife. A special thank you to my mom, Cheryl. Your steadfastness and perseverance is amazing. Last but not least I thank Ruth, Diana’s mom. You’ve set a tremendous example of what a mom truly is. Happy Mother’s Day!

Bad weather, Everest summits, & Maoists

Today is day 5 of our little Mount Everest snowstorm. As you can see by the pictures it is gray, cloudy, cold, and snowy. We haven’t had much accumulation of snow, just a light and steady downfall. For 5 days! Mainly, it has just been completely void of sunlight and that is the discouraging part for me. However, I am reminded of a verse in the Bible: “This is the day that the Lord has made; I will rejoice and be glad in it.” In deed the Lord has made this gray, snowy day so why not be glad? It definitely makes for a much more enjoyable day. So my days have been filled with snowball fights, rock tipping (very fun), and reading.

I believe there is always good news around if you are just willing to look for it. Yesterday, 6 rope fixing Sherpas stood on top of Mount Everest. This was the last crucial step before we can mount a safe and successful summit assault. Our safety ropes and lifelines are now installed from the bottom to the top of Mount Everest. You may be wondering how they made it up there with all of this terrible weather? I do too. Although, this awesome feat of strength is not unheard of. It happens every year. First off, our weather forecast did predict a 2 day window of relatively low wind speed (30-50 m.p.h) and warm summit temperatures (-30 F). This has allowed the Sherpas to sneak up there and back down quickly. The jet stream usually moves off of Mount Everest for a 2 to 3 day period at the beginning of May every year. This is just enough of a safety window for the mighty Sherpas, but not enough for us regular folk. The jet stream is now firmly parked back on top of Mount Everest and the summit winds are now over 120 m.p.h. as predicted by our weather forecasts. So, as I now sit out day 10 of my rest period before the summit attempt, I continue to be patient. For those who know me well, patience is a struggle of mine. However, I am open and willing to learn and be refined more into our Maker’s image.

Quick prayer request, as you may have heard on the nightly World News, Kathmandu is under a “bandh” or stike and complete lock down. The Maoists have completely shut down the city and no one is allowed on the streets. They may make an exception for emergency services. However, the word is that the Maoists are now at base camp and are asking for “donations”. This is not voluntary and must be complied with or else trouble will ensue. The team is safe and from harm, for now. Google “Maoist” for more information. Please pray diligently.

Thanks a million for your continued prayers and kind thoughts. Is that the sun trying to poke through? I hope so.

You guess the summit date contest!

I am surprised at how many people are actually following my blog. I really enjoy reading all of the comments that are posted and the many words of encouragement. Therefore, I thought I would show my appreciation by holding a little contest. The contest is to see who can correctly guess my upcoming summit date AND time. For example, May 4, 2010 @ 8:45 a.m. The contest will end on May 10th. I will not say what the prize will be just yet because it will be determined by who wins it. Although, believe me, it will be amazing.


Now, I do not want to be so presumptuous, arrogant, or proud as to assume that I will definitely stand on the summit of Mount Everest. There are many things that still need to line up for that to happen. If I do not make the summit then I will use the guess that most closely estimates the time and date of my turn around.

And now for a bit of help in estimating the summit date. It will not be before May 10th because of the current position of the jet stream. It will be no later than May 27th because the Khumbu Icefall will become too dangerous and completely impassable. I will leave for the summit at 9:00 p.m. the previous evening hoping to summit early in the morning of the next day. I will only have 16 hours of supplemental oxygen with me (2 bottles at 2 L.P.M.) to go to the summit and return to my high camp. Once there I will have more supplemental oxygen. That should be enough to keep you guessing.

There can only one guess per person. Please tell your friends and let’s see who gets the closest.

Questions & Answers

Photo 1 – Our 2 luxurious Mountain Hardwear Space Station Dome Tents at night. The one on the right is our communication dome where we have 7 computers, 3 Thuraya DSL modems, 23 radios for communication on the mountain and a lot more. The dome on the left is where we eat and eat and eat.


Photo 2 – Partial camp view at night. I hope these photos turn out. Before I compressed them they were absolutely fantastic.

To your great dismay I will not be attaching a photo of me doing laundry. Late in the evening of May 1st, there was a snowstorm here at base camp and we received about 12” of snow and it has just stopped snowing. Therefore, my laundry duties have been postponed. Why won’t anyone hang out with me?

However, for those of you who post comments to my dispatches, thank you. I really enjoy them. Some of you have asked questions and I will use this update to answer those questions.

Stephy-lu-lu – Jerry’s vegetarian comment was a huge hit. I broke out that little gem when we first discussed climbing the Lhotse Face and apparent ice fall dangers.

I have not seen any marmots here but they can definitely be heard at all hours! Crazy how those little fellas hide so no one can see them. The look on people’s face is priceless.

The yaks still stare at me ominously. I had quite the stare down contest a few weeks back. I did take another picture of the offender in your honor.

Our group Sherpas are just that – group Sherpas. We have a total of 8 group Sherpas and 2 personal Sherpas for the 2 members who require them. While on the mountain we are expected to be self-sufficient. Therefore, I usually climb alone. However, I am always roped in and within earshot of other team members.

I have sung How Great Thou Art to myself from the beginning of this trip. It is hard to imagine any other place where God’s great handi-work is more properly on display. For the sake of other people’s hearing, I keep the singing to a minimum.

Congratulations to you and the other R.O.M. instructors on a safe spring climbing school. I am so happy to hear of the great turnout. I look forward to meeting the students this summer during Wednesday night rock climbing.

Josie – I corresponded, via email, with Brandon and Christine Chalk before the climb. We were meant to do some training climbs together but never had the chance with our conflicting schedules.

I have heard of and met Eric Weihenmeyer. Actually my good climbing buddy was heavily involved in Eric’s Everest attempt and Eric’s Everest North Side climb to benefit blind Tibetan teenagers. I am glad Eric is following along.

Tell Randy there is no way my vending machine is empty. I have a top vending machine re-fill person looking after my affairs. Thanks a million BHH.

Marcus – I did not make it very far up Everest on my last attempt, from the North or Tibetan side. Really, I only made it to the first camp, very low on the mountain. It was on my approach to Everest Base Camp, while crossing the Tibetan Plateau that I found out my wife was pregnant with our son, Alexander. I knew the proper thing to do was to come home and leave Everest for another attempt at a later time.

Our summit attempt will be sometime in May. Sorry to be so vague but we are now totally dependent upon the jet stream. Ideally we would like to attempt the summit as soon as possible. However, “His Ways are not Our Ways.” Therefore, we will wait and be patient. If it happens it happens. If not, the mountain will always be here should I be blessed enough for another attempt. Although, not likely.

Kimmy Squeeze – Thanks for the matcha shot. I received it in no time at all. BTW I will be stopping by your place of employment on my way home. I’m jonesing for a Gulf Stream.

Doug – Congratulations on your own Everest – a new Harley Davidson. Ride safe and responsibly. Don’t take the corners on Lookout Mountain to fast anymore.

B double D – I enjoyed your comment. Thank you for the Scripture verses. However, the altitude is playing tricks on my memory. Who are you? Damron?

Biggin’ – Do I know what I am doing? Absolutely not! I need to be sent back to Justin for re-training.

Anonymous – I do not have any contact with the 13 year old on Everest. He is on the North side and I am on the South. Nepal, or the South side, hold the record for the youngest person to summit Mount Everest – 16 years old. Therefore, the Nepalese will no longer allow anyone younger than 17 to attempt Everest from their side.

Please fill in your name when posting comments. I like to know who sent them.

Help! I need oxygen.

Photo 1 – Group shot at Pumori Advanced Base Camp.

Photo 2 – Yours truly at Pumori Advanced Base Camp. Everest is the dark pyramid in the back left side. Nuptse is on the right. Everest Basecamp down below.
Photo 3 – Me trying on the Poisk oxygen mask and the 4 liter (960 liters compressed) oxygen bottle I will use on the summit push. At a 2 liter per minute flow rate (while climbing), one bottle will last for 8 hours. I will have a total of 5 oxygen bottles for my personal use. I will sleep on a ½ liter per minute flow rate. Therefore, one bottle will last for 32 hours. As you can calculate, I have a considerable safety margin built in with my oxygen system.
Another 2 glorious days have passed and I have tried to fill them with fun, time consuming things. Things such as – drinking tea, eating, sudoku, reading books, calling home, walking to and from my tent, making squeaking noises and then hiding from the unsuspecting, small hikes, and laundry. Oh yes. These are the days in which you do not hear about when told of exciting Himalayan adventures. However, these days are necessary. Each day my strength is returning little by little and my appetite is getting bigger (hard to imagine). I am able to mentally focus and, further, keep my mind focused on the looming objective.

The jet stream is still parked over Everest at the moment and the team continues to exercise patience. Our entire expedition is focused upon safety first. No need to be a hero. Our wonderful team of Sherpas carried 20 bottles of oxygen and some tents to our high camp on the South Col (26,000’) today. One more load up to the Col and we are 100% staged for the summit push. The Sherpas will then return to base camp and rest up for the magic day. Our weather forecasts continue to be a bit mixed at the moment. Although, Phil, with all of his Himalayan experience, assures us that positive things are happening concerning the jet stream. It is his job to interpret the weather graphs, charts, and satellite imagery we receive twice daily from our trusty weather source. Therefore, we can see a few more days resting at base camp before the final push. Patiently we will wait and go when we feel the time is right, not when other teams may decide to go and push the limits of safety. It does happen.

Again, thank you so much for keeping my family and I in your prayers. We greatly appreciate it. Please stay tuned as the next, exciting, thrilling, awe-inspiring dispatch will include a photo of me doing laundry.

So many rest days...

Photo 1 – Me in our luxurious shower tent.


Photo 2 – Our very helpful Sherpas lending a hand in re-pitching a tent.



Today begins my third rest day at Everest Basecamp. From the current weather forecast it looks like another week or so before we will begin our assault upon the summit. The forecast calls for little precipitation up high but the wind is still too strong to safely climb in. This waiting period is completely expected and is not without good news. The route to the South Col at 26,000’ was opened yesterday. This is fantastic because the South Col is where we will have our high camp and is our final launching ground for the summit. I am pleased to confess that our climbing team has the best Sherpas on the mountain. Without their help we would be unable to climb Mount Everest. We now have 70 bottles of oxygen at Camp 2, enough food and gas, and enough tents for our final battle with the soaring heights of Mount Everest. Tomorrow the Sherpas move up to Camp 2 where they will begin the final two day transport of our supplies to the South Col. Once this feat is accomplished we will be 100% ready for the summit push. This will coincide nicely with the moving of the jet stream.

In the last dispatch I promised a little insight in to a “rest day” here at EBC. “Resting” at 17,500’ is tough. Even though I have been here for 3 weeks and am thoroughly acclimated, I still get out of breath just reaching for something to drink. Or even walking the 50 feet to my tent. Life here can be tough. We do have a few “luxuries” though. Today, for the first time in 10 days, I was able to take a shower. This was more for the team’s benefit than mine! Yesterday’s major event was cleaning the inside of my tent and re-pitching it upon solid ice. Since I am camped upon a glacier coupled with the intense sunrays here at high altitude, my tent platform has begun to melt. It is really interesting at night to be woken up several times with the loud “POP” of the underlying glacier moving, creaking, and splitting open. I love this! Tomorrow’s highlight will be a hike over to a neighboring mountain’s basecamp. I will provide pictures in the next update.

I am 100% committed to successfully finishing this expedition, however, I still long to be in the company of my wonderful family. So, I will now provide you with my top 10 list of things I miss about home. #1 – My beautiful, happy, smiling wife. #2 – tickle fights with my son – I love him so much. #3 – Our extended families. #4 – Our church family. #5 - Red Robin Restaurant. #6 – any bookstore. #7 – Magluba – my favorite Arabic dish. #8 – all of my friends, especially my R.O.M. buddies. #9 - Combat Calisthenics – Hi Sean, Nick, Ronno, Donna, Sharon, Jolene, and Beth. #10 – My job. With much gratitude – Thank you Dave and Lee for allowing me the time away. As well, mindless banter with Bryce and not to forget my P.E.C. neighbor – Kathy B.

Thank you everyone for your continued prayer.

Back from Camp 3 - 23,500'

 Photo 1 – Near vertical ice climbing at 23,000’. Ugggh.


Photo 2 – Yours truly on the Lhotse Face at 23,500’. The prominent bump in the background is the Geneva Spur. The last obstacle before Camp 4 at 26,000’ – my staging ground for the summit attempt. Notice Mount Everest still rising mightily to the left and still being pounded by the jet stream.

Photo 3 – View down the Western Cwm from Camp 3 at 23,500’. Many mountains that have been towering above me for weeks are now at eye level. Notice the “flatish” mountain in the far background. This mountain is Cho Oyu standing at 26,907’. I stood on top of this mountain on September 29, 2005. As you can imagine, I had the opposite view – staring at Mount Everest, Lhotse, and the Western Cwm. I wondered to myself if I would ever have the opportunity to climb there. Mission accomplished. I am so blessed!



The entire team has returned safely from our 5 day trip up the mountain. As planned, we did climb up to the sight of our Camp 3, which will be at 23,500’. Along with this great accomplishment coupled with several more days at Camp 2 we are now sufficiently acclimated and ready to mount an attempt upon the summit. However, the jet stream is not ready for us to try for the summit. The current wind speed on the summit of Mount Everest is 55 m.p.h. Too strong to try and climb up there. So, as of now we are anticipating 10 – 14 days of rest at basecamp before we try for the summit. It very well could be sooner, but we must plan for the longer period of time. Currently, we receive daily weather forecasts for multiple elevations on Mount Everest, including the summit. Once we receive a favorable long term forecast we will stage an attempt upon the summit. So what will occupy our time while waiting for the summit window? Please keep following along. Thank you for your prayers.