And he is off!!!

This is Diana again with today’s update. This morning’s call from Ben is probably the last one for several days. The team has finished their rest at Camp 2 and will leave for Camp 3 tomorrow morning. The cyclone has not impacted the weather on Everest and the weather continues to be consistent with the forecasts they have been following. They will be able to stick to the schedule Ben posted a few days ago. They have heard of many other teams making summit attempts the on the 21st and 22nd so they are planning their summit push for 1 day later to avoid the crowds and bottlenecks, which can be very dangerous. Ben sounds strong. Although, between the conversations of a chatty two-year old, Ben did mention something about his back which was a concern before he left for this trip. Once again, thank you all for your prayers. The next update will hopefully be good news of Ben’s summit and safe return down the mountain.

Safe & Sound at Camp 2. However?

This is Diana, posting an update for Ben. He has arrived at Camp 2 safely where the team will rest for a few days. How long will be determined by the weather, once again. There is a cyclone in the Bay of Bengal that may hit Mt. Everest or change the weather on the mountain. The team has the computer and modem at Camp 2 for the purpose of checking the weather updates. Your prayers are greatly appreciated.


Finally, Ben would like to wish his nephew, Joey, a very Happy 13th Birthday!

Summit push is on!

I POSTED 2 DISPATCHES - SEE BELOW

Wow! After 21 days of waiting at E.B.C. and 14 years of constant dreaming, it is now time for me to begin my summit attempt of Mount Everest. I am so excited, thrilled, anxious, scared and more. I take comfort in my favorite Bible verse of all time: Philippians 4:13. The verse states, “I can do all things through Christ who gives me strength.” For me, this 8 day endeavor to stand on the roof of the world and return safely will be the most physically demanding thing I have ever done. When the word ‘strength’ is mentioned, it is not only physical strength that will be required of me to stand on top of Mount Everest. Mental strength will also be paramount. The mental strength to keep pushing even though I will be exhausted. The mental strength to constantly reassure myself that I really do have what it takes to summit and that I truly have earned the privilege to climb Mount Everest. Perhaps, most importantly, the mental strength and clarity of thought to determine whether or not to continue up or turn around and be able to climb another day. I do not know, and I often ponder what I will face while high on the slopes of Mount Everest. Unsafe weather conditions, extreme cold, snow/avalanche conditions, the frozen corpses of past climbers, and a host of other factors will weigh heavily on my mind as I travel heavenward. As I have stated many times in the past, climbing safely and returning home to my family is much more important than any accolades I might receive from a summit of Everest.


Here is my anticipated climbing schedule for the next 8 days.

Tuesday, May 18, 2010 – leave E.B.C. at 5:00 a.m. and climb directly to Camp 2.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010 – Rest day at Camp 2.

Thursday, May 20, 2010- Rest day at Camp 2.

Friday, May 21, 2010- Climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3.

Saturday, May 22, 2010 – Climb from Camp 3 to Camp 4 arriving no later than 1:00 p.m.

Saturday, May 22, 2010 – leave Camp 4 at 9:00 p.m. for the rooftop of the world.

Sunday, May 23, 2010 – God willing, I will summit Mount Everest around 7:00 a.m. and return to Camp 4.

Monday, May 24, 2010 – Climb down from Camp 4 to Camp 2. Call home, update blog.

Tuesday, May 25, 2010 – Climb down from Camp 2 to E.B.C. Call home, update blog.

For those who are interested, the time difference between Denver, Colorado and Mount Everest is 11hrs 45min, with Denver being behind. This may help in determining where I am on the mountain in real time. If possible, I will call my wife and she will update this blog as information becomes available so please check in daily.

I am humbly amazed that I have so many people all across the world praying specifically for the team and I. Thank you! May God richly bless your life as He has mine.

Summits of Everest. At what cost?

I sit here at E.B.C. typing away on the computer knowing that right now, at this very moment, there are many people either standing on the summit of Mount Everest or are closing in on the final, few, hard won meters. I salute their courage and tenacity. However, the summit is only halfway. What good is standing on top if you can’t make it down? From the several radio transmissions we have heard a few of these people have been climbing toward the summit for more than 12 hours. They have been climbing through wind gusts in excess of 50 m.p.h. Their oxygen supply must be getting dangerously low. Their chance of severe frostbite is almost certain. Of course the latter observations are pure conjecture. Either way the conditions that these climbers are enduring are outside of our team’s realm of safety. I understand the possibility of trying for the summit if there was no acceptable weather window in sight. I understand trying if your remaining days on the mountain were limited. From what our team can determine a very suitable weather window is developing in just a week’s time. The winds are forecasted to diminish to a more suitable level, the chance of precipitation is dwindling, and the summit temperatures are expected to rise to a very balmy –13F. I do not know what leads one climber to accept certain conditions and another climber to whole-heartedly disagree and reject them as unsafe. I do know that we all have the same goal in mind and that is to stand on top of the world and return home safely. And safety is what I am hoping for for these few brave souls who are presently enduring extreme conditions. No mountain in the world is worth a person’s life. No mountain is worth not returning home to the loving arms of family and friends. For now we will continue to analyze the data presented to us in the hope that we will soon receive our chance of scaling the upper reaches of Mount Everest.

C.S.I. Everest?

Photo 1 – Taken from Camp 1 on Pumori – Ama Dablam in background.

Photo 2 – Taken from Camp 1 on Pumori – North & South side of Everest, West Shoulder of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse.

Photo 3 – Why do yaks always stare at me? (Steph, still staring. It never ends.)

A good friend of mine and fellow climber (2x Everest summit), Tunc Findik of Ankara, Turkey gave me the following advice when preparing for this Everest climb. “Stay out of the base camp drama. Keep your mind clear and stay focused on your own climb.” I figured that should be an easy thing to do but never imagined the amount of drama that would actually occur.

Death on Everest is a fact. It is a huge risk that both my wife and I considered when preparing for this climb. However, in life, I believe there are certain risks that cannot be avoided but can be managed. Yes, accidents do happen. Nonetheless, human error is a big part of most deaths on Everest. These errors and subsequent deaths on Everest can be managed by proper education on current conditions for the chosen mountain, safe climbing practices, proper attitude and mental outlook, and more. So far there have been 3 climbing related deaths on Everest this season. This is tragic but it is not unexpected. What has been unexpected is that even with the cool weather on Everest the Khumbu Glacier is melting out at an alarming rate. Along with the melting, the glacier reveals events of the past. This now leads to the drama. In the last week there has been 4 bodies melt out of the glacier and several more are expected because of the knowledge and location of past climbing accidents. After some investigation it has been determined that a few bodies are as recent as 2006 and a few others may be older than 15 years. This sobering reminder of what we as climbers are undertaking suggests a moment for pause and reflection.

Currently, other drama on Everest is a race to be the first Finnish woman to summit Everest. One of these Finnish women is on our team. I believe that climbing should not be about who is first and who is not. What does it really matter? Can anyone name the first American woman to summit Mount Everest? Probably not. Simply climbing at this level is an achievement in its own right, personal accolades aside. The drama in this situation is that the weather up high is terrible and not conducive for a safe climb. However, both women in an attempt to be the first have started their summit push. Right now they are both climbing through very strong wind and subsequent extreme cold. This has led to some multi-hour intensive radio communication on the upper mountain. Down here in the relative comfort of base camp it is hard to imagine that some of the events of the next couple of days will not end in bodily harm. Along with these 2 ladies there are several other teams pushing for the summit. I am concerned because the weather forecast is not supportive of a safe summit push. I do wish everyone absolute safety and personal success.

There is more drama on Everest but I will spare everyone the details. For now I am trying to maintain a positive attitude and keep a clear mind. Today is rest day #18 at E.B.C. There seems to be a weather window developing for a summit attempt somewhere around May 23 – 27. I am focused and determined to give the summit my best shot. However, everything I do here on Mount Everest is encompassed by the thoughts, concerns, and actions of safety. I appreciate your continued prayers for the team and I. As well, please remember my wife and son in your prayers. They have been 100% supportive of my efforts and deserve all my respect.

Weather rules on Everest!

The weather on this mountain sucks. I am getting really frustrated by the continued poor weather and we are running out of time. We have been pinned down by extreme wind here at E.B.C. for 3 days. It is also still very cold here. By May of each year we should be able to walk around base camp in just a fleece long sleeve shirt and pants. However, we are still bundled up in our down jackets and heavy clothing. The conditions on the upper mountain are even worse. We have had 4 tents (mine included) damaged (broken poles) by the wind here at base camp, several more at Camp 2 as well as Camp 3. Our Camp 4 supplies are hopefully safe but no one knows because we have been unable to climb up and see.


The weather forecast is not any better. Actually, the 2 main weather forecasting services are in complete agreement, which is rare. Extreme wind conditions are forecasted on the upper reaches of Everest until May 21st at the earliest. This can change but I am beginning to lose confidence. I have now been at E.B.C. waiting for the weather to improve for 16 days.

There is a small weather window developing for the 22nd – 25th. We are not sure but maybe that is when the jet stream will move off of Everest. We need at least 4 consecutive days of descent weather and manageable wind conditions to approach the summit and descend safely. The entire summit push will take 7 days but we can ascend/descend the lower mountain in less than ideal conditions.

All said and done the weather is out of our control. We just have to deal with what is given to us and stay safe. Thanks for following along. Hopefully, some good news to report in the coming days.

Still waiting...

Photo 1 – Another nice view of our 2 Mountain Hardwear dome tents at night. In the background is Pumori (23,357’) and a few Buddhist prayer flags blowing in the breeze.


Photo 2 – I attempted to climb this peak, Ama Dablam (22,551’), in 2006. We were constantly pounded by heavy snowfall and the potential avalanche conditions were too high for a safe climb. I retreated happy, confident, and safe, knowing I could attempt this peak again some other time. As you can tell, the mountain is still there and I am still safe.

Patiently waiting is the name of the game here at EBC. The jet stream is still hovering over the mountain and the winds are high. I am trying to stay occupied by going on small hikes. Even in this beautiful setting I am getting bored. I have now been at EBC, resting, for 14 days. Imagine, in the real world, sitting down and doing nothing for 2 weeks! Hard for me to imagine. Honestly, according to the weather forecast, we may be here another 10 days before attempting the summit. Ugghh! As always, your prayers are coveted and much appreciated.